We bunked off church in the morning, and took the boat over to Herm. 20 minutes over the water and you're in another world. No cars, no hurry, no bustle. Just a mile or so of gentle hills, rabbit-cropped turf and sandy beaches.
We walked up from the harbour, passing the two pubs, the hotel, handful of holiday cottages and the tiny church. Every Sunday the owner holds a short service in this ancient chapel, so lovingly cared for with polished pews and fresh flowers.
Over the other side of the hill, Belvoir Bay nestles at the bottom of a valley. Shells the size of a pinhead scattered the shore at our feet. We drank our coffee in a sheltered nook among the rocks, listening to the swell of the waves beating gently on the shore.